Local students mix with tourists eating hearty slabs of grilled meat with their fingers or cold meals from the self-serve picnic counter, while children frolic on the playground kegs. see our FAQ. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | This cute little village was once the salt-mining namesake of a culture that spread from France to the Black Sea. The square was ringed by blacksmiths, bakers, and craftsmen. Space in Hallstatt's well-tended graveyard was so limited that bones had only about 12 peaceful, buried years here before making way for the freshly dead. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. Those Augustinians must have been the most popular monks in town for their rollicking beer garden. ▲▲ Salzburg Museum Best place for city history. Buy your token, choose a mug —two choices: big and HUGE, give it a rinse…and fill 'er up. Its 500-year-old altars and frescoes feature Hallstatt's two favorite saints: St. Barbara (patron of miners) and St. Catherine (patron of foresters) — lots of wood was needed to fortify the many miles of tunnels and boil the brine to distil out that salt. Thanks for joining us. Sitting in the center of Europe is Austria. Strategic advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and money; Short itineraries covering Munich, Bavaria, Rothenburg and the Romantic Road, the Rhine Valley, and Berlin, plus Salzburg, Austria; Rick's tips for beating the crowds, skipping lines, and avoiding tourist traps; The best of local culture, flavors, and haunts, including walks through museums and atmospheric neighborhoods Rick: So this is apple and pear? Salzburg and Vienna will always have part of my heart! Share your candid opinions about hotels and restaurants or ask other travelers about their reviews. Herr Sporer: We're always busy because we're very old traditional shop in the Getreidegasse. We too will be in Scandanavia (Oslo) (and London) soon- we fly out Thursday night. Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol Paperback – April 4, 2017 by Rick Steves (Author) › Visit Amazon's Rick Steves Page. Read 11 reviews from the world's largest community for readers. Oh...that's good. Rick: But this is after breakfast and you're still quite busy. Salzburg is steeped in history. and staying 2-3 nights (2 full days). It's the easiest and best experience if you have an iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch, or Android. The well dipped into a rain-fed cistern. Today, the people of Salzburg are happy to pay a premium for the reliably fresh and top-quality produce. Family of five (two young adults, one teen) Stuttgart and Munich advice. Mozart performed for the prince-archbishop right here. Then home. The birthplace of Mozart — and everyone's Sound of Music fantasies — Salzburg is a Baroque jewel of a town. Rick Steves Best of Germany: With Salzburg Hit Germany's can't-miss art, sights, and bites in two weeks or less with Rick Steves Best of Germany! For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Salzburg's cathedral, constructed in the early 1600s, was one of the first grand Baroque buildings north of the Alps. Mozart spent a good part of his childhood on the road, performing all over Europe. we drove from Salzburg; it was easy (something like under 2 hours, as I recall), but do know people who did it by train. When it's cool outside, enjoy a historic indoor setting in any of several beer-sloshed and smoke-stained halls (one of which is still for smokers). Vienna. We're heading two hours southeast of Salzburg to my favorite Salzkammergut town on my favorite Salzkammergut lake. The 10:00 Mass is famous for its music, and today it's Mozart. The exhibits are aimed a bit more toward the Mozart connoisseur than those at Mozart's Birthplace, but the place comes with a good introductory video, is less crowded, and includes an informative audioguide. Throughout the region, ski runs earn their keep in the summer as luge courses. sights of Salzburg and surrounding countryside. ▲ St. Sebastian Cemetery Baroque cemetery with graves of Mozart's wife and father. The surrounding Mirabell Gardens, laid out in 1730, are a favorite with locals and tourists alike. Smaller text Larger text. And in Salzburg, there's no better place to experience that than here at the Augustiner Bräustübl. Herr Sporer: And it's very typical for this area. Inside Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol you'll find: Comprehensive coverage for spending two weeks or more exploring Vienna, Salzburg and Tirol Rick's strategic advice on how to get the most out of your time and money, with rankings of his must-see favorites And Alfred's not the only one with that idea. Music and the visual art complement each other. Admission is free, but donations are prominently requested. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Salzburg. Salzburg is forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. Salt — so precious as a preservative in pre-refrigerator days — was a huge part of this region's economy all the way back to pre-historic times. By Rick Steves Hohensalzburg Fortress looms 400 feet above Salzburg's forest of Baroque spires. Tucked away in the heart of the Old Town and abutting the rock wall of Mönchsberg is St. Peter's Cemetery. Herr Sporer: Schnapps is distilled fruits. Germany's Munich and the Foothills of the Alps, ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | These canals powered about 100 watermills in Salzburg, which were busily cranking as late as the 19th century. Thanks to its charmingly preserved old town, splendid gardens, Baroque churches, and one of Europe's largest intact medieval fortresses, Salzburg feels made for tourism. Later, miners dug tunnels to extract the salty rock. Salt could be shipped from here down to the Danube and beyond. I hope you've enjoyed exploring this part of Austria — with the high culture and history of Salzburg, and the natural splendor of the Salzkammergut lake district. Share hotel & restaurant reviews. Home / Blog; Salzburg. It's self-service — peruse the food stalls...no shortage of meats, kraut, and salads. Through the centuries, Hallstatt was busy with the salt trade. Nine years later, a little boy was born — Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Learn about Author Central. Rick: And what is schnapps? In Rick Steves Pocket Munich & Salzburg you'll find only the best of those two cities — admittedly a tough call! This giant Baroque church, where Mozart was baptized and later served as organist, boats exceptional stucco work, five organs, and lots of light (it doesn't have stained glass, and never did — just clear windows to let light power the message). Its ramparts provide the best views of the city. On this tour of Germany and Austria, your Rick Steves guide will bring this region's rich history and culture to life in festive Munich, Baroque Salzburg, sparkling Lake Hallstatt, monastic Melk, the blue Danube, and royal Vienna — with cozy villages and alpine vistas all along the way. Waiters only bring beer; they don't bring food — instead, go up the stairs, survey the hallway of deli counters, grab a tray, and assemble your own meal (or, as long as you buy a drink, you can bring in a picnic — many do). This time we're in the land of Mozart…it's Salzburg. So far I have us flying into Prague, spending 3 or 4 nights, taking a driver to Salzburg (Or an overnight train to Salzburg?) Most of the happy tourists probably wouldn't be here if not for the man honored by this statue. The lake is a playground for visitors in rental boats, which come with two speeds: slow and stop. to 400 B.C. Rick Steves' Europe. Rich guys' fine Renaissance-style tombs decorate the chapel walls. The town's decorative woodwork, a tradition that dates back centuries, reflects the wealth salt brought. This good-value restaurant on the edge of the old center has a dining room that's cozy in cool weather — and a balmy evenings, its great lakeside tables offer the best ambience in town. Even after the family gained fame, touring Europe's palaces and becoming the toast of Salzburg, they continued living in this rather cramped apartment. Salzburgers are forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. Salzburg and Surroundings - Rick Steves’ Europe In Salzburg, be sure to explore its delightful old town filled with Mozart history and relaxing beer gardens; then settle into a … The courtyard was the main square of this hilltop community of a thousand — which could be self-sufficient when necessary. Back then Vienna's Habsburg royalty made it their annual holiday retreat, and today it remains as delightful as ever. Try Rick Steves Best of Germany . Lovable Hallstatt is a tiny town bullied onto a ledge between a mountain and a swan-ruled lake. Herr Alfred Lenz makes the town's traditional boats from a 200-year-old design. Rick: And when is the normal when time you would drink schnapps in Austria? The palace's bubbly gardens, famously featured in The Sound of Music, are free and open until dusk. Zum wohl! Rick Steves' my way alpine Europe in 12 days. Wolfgang Mozart spent much of his first 25 years in Salzburg — one of the greatest Baroque cities north of the Alps. Today, Salzburg's pride in Mozart shows itself best not in museums but in live concerts. All over Europe I enjoy evocative cemeteries. Thanks for joining us. While much of the new part of town — on the far side of the river — was destroyed by WWII bombs, the historic Old Town survived. For centuries, Salzburg's leaders were both important church authorities and political rulers. Herr Sporer: You sip it, yes. Herr Sporer: Apple and pear. But Salzburg is busy all year long, with over 2,000 live performances in churches and palaces like this. Until next time...keep on travelling. We have been traveling “Rick’s style” for 20+ years and love it. In fact, because of the salt-mining importance here, an entire age — the Hallstatt Era, from about 800 B.C. ... Last May we found ourselves in Salzburg with another couple. Prost! For generations, the traditional salt miners' band has entertained their town. Find all the books, read about the author, and more. This is Sound of Music country. ▲▲ Getreidegasse Picturesque old shopping lane with characteristic wrought-iron signs. Salzburg's wealth was based on salt. As is often the case in rowdy European eateries like this, you share tables...and make new friends. Is that right? Very much worth it is the train ride to Prien am Chiemsee, from there on to Schloss Herrenchiemsee and Frauenwörth Abbey - this trip can also be done just as easily from Munich. St. Peter's Cemetery Atmospheric old cemetery with mini-gardens overlooked by cliff face with monks' caves. ▲▲ Hellbrunn Palace Lavish palace on the outskirts of town featuring gardens with trick fountains. For dessert — after a visit to the strudel kiosk — enjoy the incomparable floodlit view of old Salzburg from the nearby Müllnersteg pedestrian bridge and a riverside stroll home. Set your sights on the spire of the Augustinian Church, and you'll find what seems like half of Salzburg feasting and drinking. It's one of many throughout the region that offer tours. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when visiting Salzburg and Hallstatt.Rick covers the essentials, including Berchtesgaden and the Salzkammergut. Iron crosses were cheaper than carved tombstones. Terms of Service | Privacy, Salzburg, Austria: Hohensalzburg Fortress and Mönchsberg, Salzburg, Austria: Music, Lakes and Mountains, Salzburg, Austria: Sampling Schnapps on Getreidegasse. Pondering the old-time signs — which were advertising back in the days when most shoppers couldn't read — you can almost imagine strolling here looking for a sturdy pair of boots, a stylish dirndl, or even a little schnapps. The place is filled with scores of scores, portraits, [and] insights into his family life and how the young prodigy was basically home schooled by his hard-driving father. Since it was built in only about 15 years, the church boasts particularly harmonious art and architecture. When he was 25 he was ready for the big city and moved to Vienna. While the bone chapel is fascinating...there's more life down on the town square. It was here that he composed most of his boy-genius works. You don't throw it down, you sip it. Behind the church, in the well-tended graveyard, is the 12th-century Chapel of St. Michael (even older than the church). And the Steckerlfisch...now that's my kind of fish stick! Archaeologists claim that since 7000 B.C., people have come here to get salt. see our FAQ. The one in Strobl near Wolfgangsee is about twice as long, and more scenic, with grand lake views. ▲▲▲ Salzburg Town Walk Old Town's best sights in handy orientation walk (outlined in my guidebooks, and available as a free audio tour). In the year 700, its Bavaria rulers gave control of Salzburg to the local bishop in return for his promise to defend and expand Christianity in the area. Herr Sporer: You have this after dinner as a digestif or you drink it beside a beer in the evening or... Austria Reviews. It's Austria's Salzkammergut lake district, where the "the hills are alive," and you're surrounded by the scenic wonder that has enthralled nature lovers from Emperor Franz Josef to Julie Andrews. Thanks to its charming Old Town, splendid Baroque churches, one of Europe's largest medieval fortresses, and so many great places nearby, Salzburg feels designed to keep its visitors happy. ▲ DomQuartier Museums Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich's Residenz palace, cathedral viewpoint, and religious art. My Account. If you have yet to tour a salt mine, consider visiting Hallstatt's, which is still active, producing 1.1 million tons of salt each year (mostly used for road salt, though you can also buy souvenir shakers of table salt). If you're driving between Salzburg and Hallstatt, you'll pass two luge rides operated by the same company; each course is just off the road with easy parking. The stream, divided into smaller canals, was channeled through town. Surveying the town, you can imagine Salzburg through the ages. Lightweight, yet packed with info on the cities' history and culture, Rick Steves Pocket Munich & Salzburg truly is a tour guide in your pocket. On balmy summer evenings, this brewery has the ambience of a Renoir painting as all generations gather under the chestnut trees, as they have for centuries, to enjoy cheap food, good beer, and that special local coziness called "Gemütlichkeit." Pop into the fishery — two men have a license to harvest the lake of its plankton-fed Reinanke fish — much prized by local restaurants. By Rick Steves Rather than visit the real-life sights from the life of Maria von Trapp and family, most tourists in Salzburg want to see the places where Julie Andrews and company were filmed performing the Hollywood version of the former almost-nun's story. In the fall of 1773, when Wolfgang was 17 — and his family was flush with money from years of touring — the Mozarts moved here from their cramped apartment on Getreidegasse. Salzburg, which grew rich from the salt trade long ago, is touristy but still enjoyable today. At the mine, visitors slip into overalls, meet their guide, and hike into the mountain. Rick- Glad to see that you are re-visiting some places that are among the favorites of my husband and myself- due to your TV show. They dissolved it into a brine, which flowed through miles of pipes — the oldest hewn out of logs — to Hallstatt and nearby towns where the brine was, and still is, cooked until only the salt remained. The Mozart family was successful enough to entertain Salzburg's high society in this fine room. There's no audioguide, but everything's described in English. The building itself, bombed in World War II, is a reconstruction. The oar lock is still made of the gut of a bull. The one in Fuschl am See (closest to Salzburg) is a little cheaper, and takes about 10 minutes for the ride up and down. Since it had no road access, people came and went by boat. Many of the dug-up bones and skulls ended up in the bone chapel. The same two men were there that served us in 2013. Rick: So there's many different kinds of schnapps? For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Wolf Dietrich was raised in Rome, counted the powerful Medicis in Florence as his buddies, and had grandiose Italian ambitions for Salzburg. Hi, I just returned from my second trip to Salzburg and Germany in 2 years, and I am in love with Salzburg, and staying in the Altstadt area. The regulars here know that there are enough flavors of schnapps to keep them coming back again and again. A steep funicular runs up the mountain to Hallstatt's salt mine. The countryside around Salzburg has plenty of farmhouse B&Bs. Herr Sporer: Apple and pear, yes. Lying on a busy trade route connecting northern Europe with the south, Salzburg was well aware of the exciting things going on in Italy. Are you an author? Inside you'll find:Strategic advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and moneyShort itineraries covering Munich, Bavaria, Rothenburg and the … Thanks to its charming Old Town, splendid Baroque churches, one of Europe's largest medieval fortresses, and so many great places nearby, Salzburg feels designed to keep its visitors happy. Rick Steves is America's leading authority on European travel. From the castle take a stroll across the forested Mönchsberg hill for a breezy respite from the city, and more commanding views. The Weissacher family rents a couple of simple yet comfy rooms to supplement their farm income. (photo: Rick Steves) Those who climb (or ride) up to Salzburg's fortress are treated to … Though I don’t consider it my job to breathlessly promote every destination that comes down the pike…rather, I try to give hard opinions in the spirit of the king of hard travel opinions, Rick Steves. The core of this book is five self-guided walks and tours that zero in on Munich's greatest sights and neighborhoods, plus two chapters on the best day trips (to Salzburg and to Neuschwanstein Castle). Allow about three hours total for the round-trip funicular ride, viewpoint visit, and 1.5-hour salt-mine tour. Apart from the waterfall, which rips through its middle, Hallstatt is an oasis of peace. It seems each plot is lovingly tended by relatives. To properly enjoy this lavish palace — once the prince-archbishop's summer palace and now the seat of the mayor — get a ticket to a Schlosskonzert (my favorite venue for a classical concert; the palace is otherwise closed to visitors). And way back when Wolfgang was still practicing his scales, Salzburg's busy open-air produce market gave farmers the chance to sell directly to locals. Getting a beer is fun in itself. To get to the Panoramabar from the main part of the library, you take a diagonally-moving elevator, which was a new experience for me. Rick Steves' Europe. In Salzburg we'll explore its delightful Old Town, enjoy Mozart in a palace, and relax in a sun-dappled beer garden. While its popularity has led to a glut of businesses hoping to catch the tourist dollar, Salzburg is nevertheless both a must and a joy. Nannerl called this portrait the best ever done of her brother. ▲ Panorama Museum Wrap-around painting offering vivid peek of the city as it appeared in 1829.. ▲ Mozart's Residence Restored house where the composer lived. Hallstatt's Catholic church overlooks the town from above. The tiny train station is across Lake Hallstatt from the postcard-pretty town by the same name: Hallstatt. Terms of Service | Privacy, Upcoming Holidays and Festivals in Austria, Music Appreciation for Travel: Part II It was the harnessing of wind and water power with mills like this that helped kick the economy into gear and lift Europe out of what many call the "Dark Ages." Do you have a favorite? This one dates from 1597. Rick Steves' Europe. Wealthy as those guys were, when they ran out of caring relatives, they were dug up, shipped out, and their fancy tombstones ended up on the wall. To build "the Rome of the North.". — is named for this once-important spot. The hills are alive with the sound of music... …was named after this once-important spot. Each of the several hundred painted skulls has been lovingly named, dated, and decorated. Auf Wiedersehen. They were as kind as ever and the food was still as good as I remembered. Rick: Obstler is apple and...? Salzburg remained an independent state for over a thousand years — until it surrendered to Napoleon. Rent bills are sent out about every 10 years. There were major salt mines just upstream. While fires have been a recurrent problem, many houses go way back. Choose from these three free options to listen to Rick Steves' Austria & Germany Audio Tours of Vienna, Salzburg, and Germany: Get the Audio Europe app! ▲ Mirabell Gardens and Palace Beautiful palace grounds and concert venue with fine views and Sound of Music memories. St. Sebastian Cemetery is a quiet oasis in Salzburg. The banks of the Salzach River — ideal for strolling and biking — were once medieval tow paths. ▲ Mönchsberg Walk "The hills are alive" stroll you can enjoy right in downtown Salzburg. Old Salzburg's busy and colorful main drag was, and still is, Getreidegasse. Best of all, it comes with a fun funicular ride to the Rudolfsturm "Skywalk" Viewpoint, with stunning panoramas over the town and lake. For fans, it's almost a pilgrimage. They were "prince-archbishops" — combining both political and religious power. If you'd like to commune with nature in a uniquely Austrian way, Salzburg is the ideal jumping off point for spectacular countryside to the south. Salzburg's mighty castle offers incredible views in both directions, cafés, and a handful of mediocre museums. Rick Steves has spent 100 days every year since 1973 exploring Europe. It's Sunday morning. Follow me for a little walk and enjoy a rare opportunity to drill deep into the mausoleum of a prince-bishop. Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol book. ▲▲ Sound of Music Tour Bus or bike through S.O.M. I'm Rick Steves. This time we're in the land of Mozart…it's Salzburg. Last time I stayed in the Hotel Elephant, and it was very good, small rooms, central and it had air conditioning..which many in old bldgs do not have. This huge 1,000-seat beer garden within a monk-run brewery in the Kloster Mülln, is rustic and raw. In this case, while Salzburg leaves me cold, I did manage to find plenty to like about it. The skulls resting on Bibles are those of the town's priests. We're heading into the Mirabell Palace to hear a string quartet play in a splendid Baroque hall. This square, with its striking cathedral and Italian-style palace was the centerpiece of his Baroque dream city. The organ loft fills the church with glorious sounds as Mozart, 250 years after his birth, is still powering worship with his musical genius. And this evening the Twins Quartet from Moscow play Mozart's Eine kleine Nachtmusik. You don't go to Salzburg to avoid the tourists. Restaurant Bräugasthof, lakeside and under a grand chestnut tree, is just the place to try some of Lake Hallstatt's prized fish. From our home base in Salzburg, we side trip into the Salzkammergut lake district — Lake Hallstatt and the town by the same name. Its river is called the "Salzach" not because it's salty, but because of the precious cargo it once carried. They're popular with big-city families who want the opportunity to stay on a farm, to learn to ride, and just get away from the intensity of urban life. (17:24). Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. If you look at the map of Austria, the closest big city to it is Linz, which is pretty much 1/2 way in between Vienna and Salzburg. ▲▲ Hohensalzburg Fortress Imposing mountaintop castle, with small museums, commanding views, and concerts most evenings. 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